京都物語 Tales from Kyoto

I’ve been sleeping off my trip to Kyoto and, you know, working.

So to start with, here’s a quick overview of our Kyoto trip. I went with Erin and Greta and we stayed with Lilith. When Greta tallied up her shrine book, she had added eleven new signatures in the three days we were there… and I think I got a couple that she didn’t. Wow.

Here’s a brief selection of photos from each shrine we visited. Hopefully a more detailed overview with more pictures will be coming soon!

Day 1: Fushimi Inari Taisha 伏見稲荷大社

Kyoto (Fushimi Inari) Kyoto (Fushimi Inari)

Shrines in Kyoto are pretty… intense.

Fushimi Inari Shrine is a hike. You know you’ve gotten to the right place because the train station is decorated with that distinctive Shinto orange, and then you hike up a mountain to the top. Whew!

After Fushimi Inari, we went to Sanjusangendo, which is beautiful, but you aren’t allowed to take any pictures of the sassy guardian gods.

Day 2: Heian Shrine 平安神宮 and Yasaka Shrine 八坂神社

 Our first stop of Day 2 was Heian Shrine. It’s huge but kind of… boring looking, honestly. I think the big shrines are cool, but the Kyoto aesthetic is different from the shrines in Tokyo and I’ve found the little ones are often much more interesting.

We were tourists in Kyoto, though, so as self-respecting shrinehoppers, we had to hit up Heian Jingu even though we were still exhausted from hiking up Inari Mountain yesterday.

Kyoto (Heian Jingu)

Hi there! My mom always complains that I don’t post pictures of myself exploring, so here’s one.

Kyoto (Heian Jingu)

Shrines in Kyoto? are massive.

This is not the main part of the main building, it’s just like a side turret. I think only Meiji Jingu near Harajuku has anything on the shrines in Kyoto, and that’s the only one nearly this huge.

Next up was Yasaka Shrine, also known as Gionsha.

Kyoto (Gionsha)

Oops, I only got one good photo and it’s just the gate.

The sakura in Kyoto were much prettier than the cherry blossoms in Tokyo this year. I’m glad I got to see some lovely flowers while I was away!

Day 3: Daishogunhachi Shrine 大将軍八神社, Seimei Shrine 晴明神社, Kenkun Shrine 建勲神社, Imamiya Shrine 今宮神社, and Hirano Shrine 平野神社

Phew!

Our first planned stop of the day was Seimei Shrine, but along the way, we had to walk down Youkai Street (literally, Demon Street) and there was a lovely little shrine called Daishogunhachi that we stopped at to look around. The priest there was excited to see us and complimented my shrine book, which really made my day.

Kyoto (Daishogunhachi Shrine) Kyoto (Daishogunhachi Shrine)

We got some interesting stuff to read (and in English!) that I’ll share when I get around to indivudal posts about each of these shrines. I think this might be my favorite one that I visited the whole time I was in Kyoto and we didn’t even mean to find it!

… but I guess that’s just the joy of #shrinehopping, right?

Next up… Seimei Shrine!Kyoto (Seimei Shrine)

I walked three miles in the rain and all I got was this small and weirdly commercialized shrine…?

We spotted a cool looking shrine not far away across the street, but by then we were all exhausted, so it’ll have to wait until next time I’m in Kyoto, because we were on a mission to Kenkun Shrine, a shrie to Obu Nobunaga.

Kyoto (Kenkun Shrine)

This one was up a big hill, too.

Kyoto isn’t easy on my knees.

From there, we walked to the last shrine of our trip, the beautiful Hirano Shrine.

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I bought a new shrine book here for when I finish my current one! There was a lovely cherry blossom garden on the grounds, but we didn’t stay long because we had to get back to pick up our bags and catch our train home.

Kyoto (train)

京都行った

Despite my best efforts, I did not get to all of the shrines in Kyoto in three days. I tried really hard, though, and it left me exhausted. I made it in safely last night but I’m still too tired to put up a post that will do my trip any justice.

Instead, here’s a picture of something I bought at Fushimi Inari Shrine:

Miku Shrine ?!

No, that’s not a shrine to Hatsune Miku!

 

There might be a rule against displaying the torii like that, but I don’t know… I smile every time I see it over there!

Behind them are my three(!) shrine books: the original one I purchased at Hakone Shrine in October 2012, a special Ten Shrines of Tokyo pilgrimage book, and a new, blank book from Hirano Shrine in Kyoto. (Also, my mother’s copy of Rubyfruit Jungle, which she gave me for my birthday.)

I cleaned out the bottom shelf to make space for my research books and the pamphlets that come with shrine signatures. Tomorrow, I’ll start posting more detailed accounts of my Kyoto trip.

exciting news at #shrinehoppers headquarters

“So what ever happened to “梅まつり Plum Blossom Festival (2)?” you might ask.

Well, let me show you. This happened:
Yasukuni Shrine

I didn’t alter this picture (of Yasukuni Shrine’s massive torii gate) in Photoshop or anything. The sky, cross my heart and hope to die, was that weird yellowy brownish grey color, and breathing in that air kinda hurt. It stung my eyes.

So even though Anna and I intended to go see more plum blossoms, we only made it to two of the four shrines we wanted to see that day. Iidabashi was deserted, and Kudanshita was no better. Walking through any part of Tokyo, especially in a central area so close to Tokyo Station itself, and seeing almost no one was creepy.

It was a little too Acid Tokyo for us, so we went home.

The only other shrine we saw that day was the lovely Tokyo Daijingu.

Tokyo Daijingu

 

I’ll get back to that area sometimes for more pictures, more shrines, and a more detailed post, because today, there is exciting news at the #shrinehoppers headquarters:

We’re going to Kyoto!

I’ve got a train to catch this evening, and then for the next few days, it’ll be shrines, shrines everywhere! I’ve got to narrow down my choices, but first on the list is Fushimi Inari Taisha. I’m excited, because I’ve never been. Last time I was in Kyoto, I thought that shrines were terribly boring.

Whoops?

梅まつりPlum Blossom Festival (1)

梅まつり Plum Blossom Festival
It’s (finally) that time of year again when the flowers start to bloom!
This post is going to be pretty picture heavy because I love to take pictures of flowers.

From the end of February to the middle of March, the first of the flowering trees start blooming. Last year, I mistakenly believed these to be cherry blossoms. Those come a little bit later, from the end of March until the beginning of April. First are the plum trees.

梅まつり Plum Blossom Festival

I’ve been keeping an eye on the one at work, watching it bloom and getting a whiff of the flowers when I’m outside at recess. Plum trees smell lovely. All of the shops sell fancy sakura scented goods, like hand cream and so on, but what they should package is the plum blossom smell: sweet and a little bit spicy. Yum!

梅まつり Plum Blossom Festival

My first stop yesterday was 亀戸天神, Kameido Tenjin Shrine. I’ve been there before (a few times). Kameido, like all Tenjin Shrines, enshrines the spirit of a historical scholar, 菅原道真, Sugawara no Michizane. (His name as a 神様, a kami (loosely, a “god”), is 天満天神, Tenma Tenjin.)

Originally enshrines to appease his vengeful ghost, Sugawara no Michizane was a Heian Period scholar and poet. Tenjin Shrines popular places to pray for good luck during the new school year, for passing entrance exams, etc. He is a patron spirit of arts, especially poetry.

Sugawara no Michizane also really, really loved plum blossoms, and you can find plum trees at all of his shrines.

梅まつり Plum Blossom Festival

Although Kameido Tenjin is more famous for their wisteria (which bloom in May), there are plum blossoms aplenty to be seen and admired. When my friend, and fellow shrinehopper, Anna, brought her shrine book in to be signed, they stamped it with a special “梅まつり” stamp.

梅まつり Plum Blossom Festival

I happened to catch a glimpse of a stranger’s shrine book while I was out admiring the flowers, and I saw that they have a special purple stamp for the Wisteria Festival in late spring.

Gotta catch ’em all?

My next stop was 湯島天神, Yushima Tenjin Shrine, not far from Ueno Park. I’ve been to Yushima Tenjin Shrine many times before, because I used to live over there. Often, I would stumble upon it by accident while out biking. That was always a good sign, because it meant I could find my way home.

However, I didn’t have my shrine book yet, so I brought that along to be signed.

梅まつり Plum Blossom FestivalI never cared much for handwriting before I started collecting shrine signatures. I love the delicacy of this one; a contrast to the dark, heavy (and still beautiful) signature on the opposite page, which unfortunately bled through the paper in places. Those two signatures are a study in contrasts.

Yushima Tenjin is usually a place of quiet and serenity. It’s a little out of the way from Ueno Park, and not quite famous enough to appear on every tourist’s itinerary. Yesterday, it was just bustling with people come to admire the plum blossoms that cover the grounds.

梅まつり Plum Blossom Festival

There were still opportunities for some beautiful flower photos.

梅まつり Plum Blossom Festival

I haven’t quite figured out who gets lions and who gets foxes for guardians, except that Inari Shrines always have kitsune. Sugawara no Michizane, like fellow deified scholar Ono no Takamura (enshrined in 小野照崎神社, Onoterusaki Shrine, near my old apartment), has lion guardians at his shrine.

Don’t let the old timey flower petals and carved stone lions fool you: on either side of this pedestal was a stall selling delicious fried festival food.

There is a saying in Japanese, “花より団子,” hana yori dango, which means, roughly, “food over flowers.” It’s for someone who goes to お花見, ohanami, flower viewing, for the tasty treats instead of the flowers. That was me, until about this time last year.

Now I’m all about the flowers.

梅まつり Plum Blossom Festival

梅まつり Plum Blossom Festival

 

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Plum blossoms are so important to Tenjin Shrines that the 御朱印長, shrine book, at Yushima Tenjin is decorated with them. ([ctrl]+[f] “湯島天神” to find the right one.)

This afternoon, I’m heading out for another #shrinehoppers お花見  (flower viewing) adventure, this time to 牛天神, Ushi Tenjin. This shrine is entirely new to me, so I’m looking forward to visiting!

If you’d like to go get a jump on flower viewing this spring, check out Time Out Tokyo‘s list of Top 12 Ume Spots.

お楽しみ! Enjoy!

*Shinto Shrines: A Guide to the Sacred Sites of Japan’s Ancient Religion, by Joseph Cali and John Dougill

二つの稲荷神社 Inari Shrines x 2

The weather is almost sort-of nice again! And you know what nice weather means over here at the #SHRINEHOPPERS headquarters: biking adventures!

So I hopped on my trusty bike with the intent of biking from Shinkoiwa Station to Kinshicho Station and seeing what shrines I could find along the way.

The wind had other ideas.

First, I was nearly blown right off of the Hirai Ohashi Bridge into the Edo River. The wind was so strong I had to steer hard right to avoid crashing into the low fence on my left. Then my glasses nearly blew off of my face(!), and that was when I realized that I should go home and fetch my laundry inside.

I did at least get to see one shrine on my way:

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I found this little Inari Shrine near an apartment complex right next to the train tracks. When I parked my bike to take a picture, the security guard came out and yelled at me, but I explained that all I wanted was to look at the shrine and I’d go away, and he said that was fine.

Hooray! for limited Japanese skills. I love that I can trail off awkwardly when I don’t know a word without looking like a complete idiot, because the listener is supposed to infer my meaning. Or something like that.

So, I parked my bike at Hirai Station and took the train back home, brought my laundry in so it wouldn’t be blown away in the hurricane winds we’re having today, and turned around and went back to Hirai. (Thankfully, this was all covered by my monthly train pass, so I didn’t have to pay for one stop back and forth.)

After the near death experience on the bridge, I thought better of biking any further and took the train the rest of the way to Kinshicho Station. I wanted to get some provisions (cheesy popcorn yum) for my movie night with my roommate and check out a little shrine I often see on my way in to work but never had the chance to really check out.

Kinshicho Livin Inari ShrineThis little tiny shrine lives on the second floor of a shopping complex parking garage. I wish I could have gone closer, but they had it coned off and while I might be able to explain why I’m illegally parking my bike, I’d have a harder time justifying breaking and entering.

What’s really interesting about this shrine is the location. I’m serious: it’s on top of a parking garage. Go up to the LIVIN bike parking second floor, and there it is, just doing it’s shrine thing. I bet it’s one of those little ones I’ve heard about that were moved upwards during the boom. The rule, so I hear, was that you can’t demolish a shrine and you can’t move the footprint from side to side, but you could move them upwards, as long as they were on the highest floor.

I’ve heard of those shrines before, but this is the first one I’ve seen.

Even though my plans were, ahem, blown up today, I’d still consider it a successful, if short, #shrinehoppers excursion.

亀戸天神 Kameido Tenjin & Surrounding Area

After being cooped up in my apartment for three days with (maybe) the flu, I had to get out and stretch my legs. So I bundled up and left my bike behind to go explore some shrines nearby. It’s still cold outside and I’m still a little sick, so I took the train.

I buy a monthly train pass for work, because it’s cheaper and easier than putting money on my card every day, or even every week. It’s great, because it gives you unlimited travel between your home and work stations along a certain route, so I was able to get to Kameido Station for free.

I’ve been to 亀戸天神, Kameidoten Shrine (also known as Kameido Tenjin or Kameido Tenjin Shrine) before: I biked there when I was living near Ueno Park over the summer, and walked there recently to take some pictures in the snow. The weather yesterday was much more agreeable, so I took a leisurely stroll, starting with another local shrine: 香取神社, Katori Shrine.

Katori Shrine

Kinshicho Station, the next stop over from Kameido Station on the JR Sobu Line, is a twenty minute walk from the Tokyo Skytree and it dominates the area. Everywhere you go, you can see the Skytree looming above the other buildings.

It’s great for me when I’m out on my bike, because as long as I can find my way to the Skytree, I know how to get home. It also makes for some nice pictures. This one was taken from under the 鳥居, torii gate, leading into the shrine area.

From Katori Shrine, I set off to Kameido Tenjin Shrine. I didn’t have my shrine book with me when I went to take the snow pictures, because I left from work and I don’t usually carry it around with me unless I plan on going out on an adventure.

Kameidoten Shrine

Fun fact: the 亀 “kame” in 亀戸 “Kameido” means “turtle,” so there are lots of turtles to be found around the shrine area. In the summertime, you can see them swimming in the pond. Yesterday, there wasn’t a turtle to be seen – but there were two herons! Unfortunately, they were too far away to get a good photo.

I stopped to get my shrine book signed and noticed that I’m already running out of pages! The paper in my book is very thin, so the ink has bled through in some places, like behind the 王子神社 Oji Shrine signature, which is very bold and dark.

So while I waited, I looked at the books on display. A purple one with gold embroidery caught my eye, so I picked up the sample to get a closer look. Imagine my surprise when there was printed writing inside! That’s not how it’s supposed to work!

I flipped back to the front and took a moment to actually read it (whoops) and noticed something exciting:

Tokyo Ten Shrine Pilgrimage

御朱印長東京十社めぐり, or “Shrine Book for the Ten Shrines of Tokyo Pilgrimage.”

There are a lot of shrines in Tokyo. (Believe me, I know!) The Ten Shrines of Tokyo (東京十社, Tokyo Jissha) are the ten most important shrines in the city. I’ve visited many of them before, before I had my shrine book. This one is a special pilgrimage book, with a space for each of the ten signatures, and the facing page has some information about the shrine. (In Japanese, of course, but that’s why I bought an electronic kanji dictionary.)

I know what I want for my birthday.

Once I had my signature from Kameido Tenjin Shrine, I set off to the next one marked on the guide map outside of the shrine: 天祖神社 Tenso Shrine.

Tenso Shrine

I thought the route looked familiar, and I was right: I had been here before. It was no less creepy than any of the other times I’ve visited, and it’s not just that mysterious shadow across the shrine. It feels at once lived-in and neglected, and it sends a shiver down my spine every time I’ve come here.

I was a little disappointed to find that I’ve been here before. Tokyo is secretly the world’s smallest town. You end up in the same places, over and over again, quite by accident, and run into classmates you haven’t really seen or heard from in years while you’re out doing a little shopping.

By this point, I was drooping and it was time to go home. I had planned to go out one stop further than my workplace, to 水天宮 Suitengu Shrine, but my (re)visit will have to wait until another time when I’m not still fighting off the flu.

That’s okay. Maybe when I go, I can take my bike. You miss a lot by going on the train, but I wasn’t up for it yesterday. I’m glad I was able to get out of my apartment, even if I did end up sleeping for ten hours last night.

#shrinehoppers adventurer’s toolkit

A Lifehacker post about how to prepare for a natural disaster gave me the kick in the pants to do something that I should have done a long time ago: I made an earthquake kit. Tokyo’s  a beautiful city, but it could collapse at any moment and it’s best to be prepared.

On a happier note, here’s my “#shrinehoppers adventurer’s toolkit.”

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Here it is, all taken out of it’s waterproof plastic bag and displayed on my charming grey carpet. The informational pamphlets are given to you when you have your book signed, and the map was a gift from my fellow shrinehopper, Koji, who got it from a miko at a shrine near my apartment.

In addition to my 御朱印長, shrine book, I always keep a stash of ¥5 coins for offering at shrines; the aforementioned map; and a mechanical pencil to record the names of the shrines in English. I have a hard time reading kanji, especially when you get beautiful (but difficult to read) signatures like this one from Sensoji Temple in Asakusa.

Sensoji Temple

I mean, really. What? This is one of my favorite signatures in my book so far, but it’s difficult for me to read. Anna has miraculous kanji skills and an incredible memory, so she just knows where each signature is from (and she has a lot of signatures, let me tell you), and Koji uses sticky notes, but I write in pencil on the corner of the page, just in case.

My Shinto book (soon to be books, hooray!) and research notebook stay at home, but I included them in my toolkit picture because research is becoming part of the #shrinehoppers experience. I’m no longer content with just seeing the sights: I want to understand them.

Hikawa Shrine Protective Charm

Kameido Tenjin Shrine Protective Charm

The last piece of my toolkit is a charm on my trusty bike. My first charm (left) was from Hikawa Shrine in Omiya, but it’s in pretty rough shape from the wind and the rain and protecting me while I bike around – on adventures and errands alike – so I’ll need to return there in order to get a signature for my book, and to leave the old charm there to be ceremonially burned. (I really should have done this before New Year.)

The new bike charm was purchased the other day when I walked to Kameido Tenjin Shrine in the snow. I figured I deserved a reward for that trek, and what better than a charm to protect me while I go out on more adventures?